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Need 3208 Help

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ETD66SS
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As some of you know, my 72 Ford Dump Truck with 3208 had an accident this weekend: http://www.acmoc.org/ACMOC_BB/showthread.php?t=1554

I found a replacement truck, which also has a 3208: http://buffalo.craigslist.org/grd/379536291.html

The guy had the truck running yesterday, but when he went to start it this morning, it would not start. I got the truck for $1400 in the hopes that I can get it running.

There is a water separator/filter on the firewall, and the normal fuel filter & primer on the engine.

I drained the crud out of the separator, and took the fuel filter off, it looked like clean fuel inside.

I cracked the bleeder, and primed the system. The truck sounded different after that like it wanted to start (turned over faster) but didn't.

The solenoid on top of the injector pump clicks when you turn the key on. Also I had to hotwire the electric in-tank fuel pump.

Fuel is definitely getting to the injector pump.

When I get the truck, I'm putting all new filters on it.

What else should I do to try to get this running?

If I can't, & have to switch the box & hoist from this IH to my Ford. I'd rather get the IH running...
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Wed, Aug 1, 2007 4:14 AM
SJ
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Did you try to loosen & bleed each fuel line to the spray nozzles at the head? Might try removing the solenoid & see if it starts then but sounds like you have air in the system yet so use the priming pump to get pressure up & as I mentioned break the lines at the spray nozzles one at a time till you get a good flow of air free fuel.
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Wed, Aug 1, 2007 5:59 AM
ETD66SS
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Reply to SJ:
Did you try to loosen & bleed each fuel line to the spray nozzles at the head? Might try removing the solenoid & see if it starts then but sounds like you have air in the system yet so use the priming pump to get pressure up & as I mentioned break the lines at the spray nozzles one at a time till you get a good flow of air free fuel.
Hmm, no I did not do that...

There must be air in there, as the electric fuel pump was not working when the guy was trying to start it for me, so we hotwired it...

So I crack those bleeders and use the hand primer, bleeding them one at a time?
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Wed, Aug 1, 2007 6:04 AM
SJ
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Reply to ETD66SS:
Hmm, no I did not do that...

There must be air in there, as the electric fuel pump was not working when the guy was trying to start it for me, so we hotwired it...

So I crack those bleeders and use the hand primer, bleeding them one at a time?
Yes bleed each one at a time & tighten the line up after each one you check & go to the next one. Also if you get good fuel there try starting it & if doesn,t fire up right off give it a short snort of ether in the air cleaner & see if it fires up then.also should have said pump up the pressure with the pump after you get done bleeding it so there is pressure there to start with.
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Wed, Aug 1, 2007 7:07 AM
edb
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Reply to SJ:
Yes bleed each one at a time & tighten the line up after each one you check & go to the next one. Also if you get good fuel there try starting it & if doesn,t fire up right off give it a short snort of ether in the air cleaner & see if it fires up then.also should have said pump up the pressure with the pump after you get done bleeding it so there is pressure there to start with.
Hi ETD66SS,
another point to bleed is not shown in any literature is bolt "9". Just loosen it a turn or so and with transfer or priming pump pressure let the air out until fuel issues around the threads, loosen and bleed again with engine running to get air free fuel.
Air gets trapped in the Governor housing and holds the fuel level below the inlet port height of the fuel injection pump plungers until the transfer pump pressure pressurises the air trapped there and raises the fuel level for the pumps to pump, when the engine stops the air pressure pushes the fuel back out of the gov. hsg. and lowers the fuel level again, this repeats the long cranking times to restart the engine until the air eventually disperses.
On 3304-6 in line sleeve metering fuel pumps ( big plate on the side) you also need to bleed at almost the same point, but, these require the same little housings' upper retaining bolt to be loosened to bleed the air out between the housing and the gasket, again rebleed after the engine is running.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Wed, Aug 1, 2007 8:02 AM
Soapy
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[quote="ETD66SS"]As some of you know, my 72 Ford Dump Truck with 3208 had an accident this weekend: http://www.acmoc.org/ACMOC_BB/showthread.php?t=1554

I found a replacement truck, which also has a 3208: http://buffalo.craigslist.org/grd/379536291.html

The guy had the truck running yesterday, but when he went to start it this morning, it would not start. I got the truck for $1400 in the hopes that I can get it running.

There is a water separator/filter on the firewall, and the normal fuel filter & primer on the engine.

I drained the crud out of the separator, and took the fuel filter off, it looked like clean fuel inside.

I cracked the bleeder, and primed the system. The truck sounded different after that like it wanted to start (turned over faster) but didn't.

The solenoid on top of the injector pump clicks when you turn the key on. Also I had to hotwire the electric in-tank fuel pump.

Fuel is definitely getting to the injector pump.

When I get the truck, I'm putting all new filters on it.

What else should I do to try to get this running?

If I can't, & have to switch the box & hoist from this IH to my Ford. I'd rather get the IH running...[/quote]

If the fuel is old, it will sour on you, and cause a no run condition, and immediately plug the filters.
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Wed, Aug 1, 2007 1:26 PM
ETD66SS
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Reply to Soapy:
[quote="ETD66SS"]As some of you know, my 72 Ford Dump Truck with 3208 had an accident this weekend: http://www.acmoc.org/ACMOC_BB/showthread.php?t=1554

I found a replacement truck, which also has a 3208: http://buffalo.craigslist.org/grd/379536291.html

The guy had the truck running yesterday, but when he went to start it this morning, it would not start. I got the truck for $1400 in the hopes that I can get it running.

There is a water separator/filter on the firewall, and the normal fuel filter & primer on the engine.

I drained the crud out of the separator, and took the fuel filter off, it looked like clean fuel inside.

I cracked the bleeder, and primed the system. The truck sounded different after that like it wanted to start (turned over faster) but didn't.

The solenoid on top of the injector pump clicks when you turn the key on. Also I had to hotwire the electric in-tank fuel pump.

Fuel is definitely getting to the injector pump.

When I get the truck, I'm putting all new filters on it.

What else should I do to try to get this running?

If I can't, & have to switch the box & hoist from this IH to my Ford. I'd rather get the IH running...[/quote]

If the fuel is old, it will sour on you, and cause a no run condition, and immediately plug the filters.
Thanks for all the tips guys, good info here.

It would be a nice little present to me if I got the guy down from $2800 to $1400 because the fuel system only needed bleeding...
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Wed, Aug 1, 2007 5:42 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to ETD66SS:
Thanks for all the tips guys, good info here.

It would be a nice little present to me if I got the guy down from $2800 to $1400 because the fuel system only needed bleeding...
Our City dump truck has a 3208 in it, doesn't get used much so when it's time to start it I use the hand primer pump until resistance is felt, give it sniff of "goose juice" and away it goes. After having had to bleed it once after it had sat a few months, I decided to try this instead. .seems to work like a champ.
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Wed, Aug 1, 2007 9:00 PM
catsilver
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Reply to ol Grump:
Our City dump truck has a 3208 in it, doesn't get used much so when it's time to start it I use the hand primer pump until resistance is felt, give it sniff of "goose juice" and away it goes. After having had to bleed it once after it had sat a few months, I decided to try this instead. .seems to work like a champ.
In my experience, the 3208 is a very good starte, bleed it through and away it goes, no need for any ether, if it was running properly and would not start the next morning, I would first change the main filter, prime it up and if it still doesn't start, take the top of the injection pump off to see what crud and water are inside. Not many people know this, but there is a 9/16" headed drain plug in the rear of the governor bottom flange to drain out accumulated water.
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Thu, Aug 2, 2007 3:56 AM
ETD66SS
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Well, I was scammed on that dump truck with the 3208.

I bought it without hearing it run, he said it ran fine, just smoked a little.

I got it hauled to my lot, hooked up 2 charged batteries, and it fired right up. The rod knock I heard was unreal. You could hear metal scraping in there.

After 10 minutes this flew out of the oil pan: http://usera.imagecave.com/whitedwarf4/Truck_Damage/DCP_0010.JPG

Too bad you can't trust anyone these days huh? I was in email contact with the guy, every day up until I told him how much of a scumbag he is, now he won't reply back...

It was a real nice farm, even talked to his old man. They both seemed trustworthy...

I got the box of the truck off and will have to swap it and the hoist out. I hope he wasn't lying about the hoist working either...

I knew I shouldn't have bought it without hearing it run. Live and learn I guess.

Too bad there are so many assholes out there. I could never tell anyone that an engine in that kind of shape ran fine, just smoked a bit...
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Mon, Aug 6, 2007 8:03 AM
ETD66SS
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Reply to ETD66SS:
Well, I was scammed on that dump truck with the 3208.

I bought it without hearing it run, he said it ran fine, just smoked a little.

I got it hauled to my lot, hooked up 2 charged batteries, and it fired right up. The rod knock I heard was unreal. You could hear metal scraping in there.

After 10 minutes this flew out of the oil pan: http://usera.imagecave.com/whitedwarf4/Truck_Damage/DCP_0010.JPG

Too bad you can't trust anyone these days huh? I was in email contact with the guy, every day up until I told him how much of a scumbag he is, now he won't reply back...

It was a real nice farm, even talked to his old man. They both seemed trustworthy...

I got the box of the truck off and will have to swap it and the hoist out. I hope he wasn't lying about the hoist working either...

I knew I shouldn't have bought it without hearing it run. Live and learn I guess.

Too bad there are so many assholes out there. I could never tell anyone that an engine in that kind of shape ran fine, just smoked a bit...
Another task I want to get done this upcoming summer is to salvage what I can off of the IH dump truck I bought in 2007. It has a CAT 3208 and Allison automatic transmission. I'd like to salvage whatever could be useful for my 3208 in my CAT 225.

I was able to remove the intake and one of the heads, as well as most of the injectors. I cannot get the rear most injector on the LH side out due to the proximity of the head to the firewall of the truck, nor can I get the head off. That cylinder is the one that threw the rod I think as there is a dropped valve in it.

There are some pics in this album: http://imgur.com/a/YLLS4

Unfortunately, it looks like I should have taken the injectors out right away. Can someone tell me if that rust on the tip of the injector has ruined it? I have maybe 3 injectors with rust on the tip like that, the rest have a bunch of carbon deposits on the tips.

I assume if I ever wanted to rebuild this injector pump for my 225, it would need to be setup differently due to the HP difference between this IH dump truck and my excavator.
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Mon, Apr 11, 2016 3:42 AM
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