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d4d drive coupler splines stripped

d4d drive coupler splines stripped

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JEFF12
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My D4D 83j 1027 power shift stopped moving and had a very rough vibaration. I took apart the rubber drive coupler and found that the splines on the back of the engine are gone along with the female splines on the coupler. the coupler going into the troque appear to be good. What should i look for that caused this problem. Maybe the torque looked up? i have been having troubles with the engine overheating this summer and it seemed to be geeting worse even after i took the radiator out and had it cleaned. i hate to just replace these parts without thinking there was something that caused this problem. I also have a parts dozer d4d 83j3378 looking at the coupler they appear to be different and not for sure if they will interchange. The good dozer has the older d333engine while the parts dozer has the 3304 engine. I forget to mention that i pulled the transmission filter out i did not see any big hunks of metal on it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Mon, Mar 4, 2013 8:21 AM
edb
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Hi Jeff,
from memory the early engine end coupling was updated due to spline failure.
I feel sure you would be able to swap the flywheel and cover plate to get the later couping to fit.

Usual cause of failure was failed drive rubbers and/or engine to transmission mis-alignment.
There are shims under the engine mounts.

Not sure if the front engine centre mount trunion is steel or rubber bushed, If the rubber bushing collapses the engine goes out of alignment. Same applies if the machine's frame side rails/chassis have been bent or twisted out of true.
Running the unit with mis-alignment or faulty drive blocks can cause crankshaft failure.

Scanned below is the procedure for checking the alignment.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
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Mon, Mar 4, 2013 8:41 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to edb:
Hi Jeff,
from memory the early engine end coupling was updated due to spline failure.
I feel sure you would be able to swap the flywheel and cover plate to get the later couping to fit.

Usual cause of failure was failed drive rubbers and/or engine to transmission mis-alignment.
There are shims under the engine mounts.

Not sure if the front engine centre mount trunion is steel or rubber bushed, If the rubber bushing collapses the engine goes out of alignment. Same applies if the machine's frame side rails/chassis have been bent or twisted out of true.
Running the unit with mis-alignment or faulty drive blocks can cause crankshaft failure.

Scanned below is the procedure for checking the alignment.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
Also need to check if the holes for the engine hold down bolts are hogged out. If so dowels will need to be installed to hold the engine in the proper location after is is bolted down.

Extreme wear in the engine front support will also cause misalignment.
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Mon, Mar 4, 2013 8:56 AM
rjh-md
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Also need to check if the holes for the engine hold down bolts are hogged out. If so dowels will need to be installed to hold the engine in the proper location after is is bolted down.

Extreme wear in the engine front support will also cause misalignment.
955K had the same splined coupling ,and spline problem .There was a change over to do away with the front splines .
Misalignment occurs because the 5/8" rear mounting bolts and lock nuts become lose due to normal engine vibration in time .The frame mounting holes are not tight around the bolts to give clearance to align the engine and coupling side to side in the frame . I have reshimed ,and realigned many 955,s 941 and 951s by using new shims ,bolts and lock nuts ..Use locktight on the bolt threads after aligning the coupling ,and torque the bolt to the cat 5/8 s bolt specs in the service manual
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Tue, Mar 5, 2013 12:19 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to rjh-md:
955K had the same splined coupling ,and spline problem .There was a change over to do away with the front splines .
Misalignment occurs because the 5/8" rear mounting bolts and lock nuts become lose due to normal engine vibration in time .The frame mounting holes are not tight around the bolts to give clearance to align the engine and coupling side to side in the frame . I have reshimed ,and realigned many 955,s 941 and 951s by using new shims ,bolts and lock nuts ..Use locktight on the bolt threads after aligning the coupling ,and torque the bolt to the cat 5/8 s bolt specs in the service manual
The doweling recommendation comes right out of the D4D service manual so apparently either the provided holes or elongated versions can not be relied upon to maintain engine location without them.
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Tue, Mar 5, 2013 12:47 AM
JEFF12
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The doweling recommendation comes right out of the D4D service manual so apparently either the provided holes or elongated versions can not be relied upon to maintain engine location without them.
thanks for all the help. i will check out the alignment.

I have not yet pulled the sump screen out of the bottom of the transmission to inspect, i plan on doing this before i start back togther. The filter on top was clean.

Any thoughts on the overheating or do you think it is two different problems?
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Tue, Mar 5, 2013 1:27 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to JEFF12:
thanks for all the help. i will check out the alignment.

I have not yet pulled the sump screen out of the bottom of the transmission to inspect, i plan on doing this before i start back togther. The filter on top was clean.

Any thoughts on the overheating or do you think it is two different problems?
this is interesting--i have had my 941b (80h5029)since 1987 and have never done anything with alignment or drive rubbers--it seems to be fine when pushing hard--is there anything i should be checking??
Thanks-Dan
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Tue, Mar 5, 2013 5:52 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to dpendzic:
this is interesting--i have had my 941b (80h5029)since 1987 and have never done anything with alignment or drive rubbers--it seems to be fine when pushing hard--is there anything i should be checking??
Thanks-Dan
That s/n has the 3304 engine and upgrade to single splined coupling. So long as the rubber donuts are good and alignment is correct you shouldn't have a problem. Wouldn't hurt to check engine mount bolt torque.
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Tue, Mar 5, 2013 7:14 AM
edb
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Reply to Old Magnet:
That s/n has the 3304 engine and upgrade to single splined coupling. So long as the rubber donuts are good and alignment is correct you shouldn't have a problem. Wouldn't hurt to check engine mount bolt torque.
Hi Jeff,
your overheating could be from the oil cooler--both the engine and transmission coolers having the packs that are part of the water flow path blocked by crud. This blockage inhibits water/coolant flow thru the entire cooling system.
Another thing on these loaders to check is the rubber baffles that seal around the radiaror core and tanks to force most of the fan forced air flow to go thru the radiator fins.
Also check the fan spider is on the correct way around.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Tue, Mar 5, 2013 11:05 AM
rjh-md
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Reply to edb:
Hi Jeff,
your overheating could be from the oil cooler--both the engine and transmission coolers having the packs that are part of the water flow path blocked by crud. This blockage inhibits water/coolant flow thru the entire cooling system.
Another thing on these loaders to check is the rubber baffles that seal around the radiaror core and tanks to force most of the fan forced air flow to go thru the radiator fins.
Also check the fan spider is on the correct way around.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
I know the service manual probably susjects installing dowels to eariler machines ,but what will be the time and expense ? The fenders will have to be removed on both sides ,and a magnetic portable drill press will be needed to drill the dowel holes .The coupling will have to be perfectly aligned or big problems will arise if the doewel holes are drilled with the coupling not aligned properly .
By installing the new change over coupling if it becomes out of alignment it usually only separates the rubber donut rubbers in time .Its alot easer to realign the new style coupling ,and install new rubber donuts ,and retorque the rear mounting bolts than install dowels in the mounts ,and dowels cannot be installed in the loaders because of the location of the mounts in the loader frame ,and the size of the mount is too small for a dowelhole to be drilled in it .
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Wed, Mar 6, 2013 1:32 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to rjh-md:
I know the service manual probably susjects installing dowels to eariler machines ,but what will be the time and expense ? The fenders will have to be removed on both sides ,and a magnetic portable drill press will be needed to drill the dowel holes .The coupling will have to be perfectly aligned or big problems will arise if the doewel holes are drilled with the coupling not aligned properly .
By installing the new change over coupling if it becomes out of alignment it usually only separates the rubber donut rubbers in time .Its alot easer to realign the new style coupling ,and install new rubber donuts ,and retorque the rear mounting bolts than install dowels in the mounts ,and dowels cannot be installed in the loaders because of the location of the mounts in the loader frame ,and the size of the mount is too small for a dowelhole to be drilled in it .
I was thinking more along the lines of drill and pinning, not full blown correct doweling. Even the upgrade is no easy task with the flywheel change required, unless there is some alternate replacement that I don't know about.
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Wed, Mar 6, 2013 2:14 AM
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