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Caterpillar 941B info and basement digging tips

Caterpillar 941B info and basement digging tips

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onesojourner
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I just picked up a 941b. I plan to use it to dig a walk out basement and and a few ponds and swales on the property. I ordered a maintenance manual and a parts manual for the machine. I talked to an old mechanic and he said to use 30 weight oil in everything. Is that correct information? I am replacing some of the warn bushing on the arms. I am also doing an engine oil and filter change. The tracks seem to be in good shape and it seems to run strong. Is there anything I should watch out for?

I plan to dig a walk out basement with this machine. I am just not sure what the best way to go about it is. I am not sure if I should Slowly work my way down to finish grade or start at the bottom of hill/finished grade and work my way back into the hill. See the picture below for an idea of what I mean:

[attachment=14580]digging%u00252520basement.jpg[/attachment]
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Thu, Sep 13, 2012 10:46 PM
Dieselholic92
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If it were me, I would start at grade and slowly work your way back into the hill. That's just easier to me. Just be sure you can carry the grade.

David Gruhot

D & G Excavating, Inc.

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Thu, Sep 13, 2012 11:08 PM
drujinin
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Reply to Dieselholic92:
If it were me, I would start at grade and slowly work your way back into the hill. That's just easier to me. Just be sure you can carry the grade.
You are pushing against a wall so I would shave it off slowly small cuts at a time to get to the desired grade.
Then leave 3 feet piled against the wall to hand dig out to prevent wall collapse.
If you have never really done this before I would recommend digging the ponds, then the swales to get the hang of the machine, then dig up against the basement wall when you feel confident that you aren't going to destroy the basement wall/foundation.
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Fri, Sep 14, 2012 1:20 AM
onesojourner
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Reply to drujinin:
You are pushing against a wall so I would shave it off slowly small cuts at a time to get to the desired grade.
Then leave 3 feet piled against the wall to hand dig out to prevent wall collapse.
If you have never really done this before I would recommend digging the ponds, then the swales to get the hang of the machine, then dig up against the basement wall when you feel confident that you aren't going to destroy the basement wall/foundation.
[quote="drujinin"]You are pushing against a wall so I would shave it off slowly small cuts at a time to get to the desired grade.
Then leave 3 feet piled against the wall to hand dig out to prevent wall collapse.
If you have never really done this before I would recommend digging the ponds, then the swales to get the hang of the machine, then dig up against the basement wall when you feel confident that you aren't going to destroy the basement wall/foundation.[/quote]

Sorry I should have been more clear, this is for new construction. I am just digging into the side of the hill.
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Fri, Sep 14, 2012 1:49 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to drujinin:
You are pushing against a wall so I would shave it off slowly small cuts at a time to get to the desired grade.
Then leave 3 feet piled against the wall to hand dig out to prevent wall collapse.
If you have never really done this before I would recommend digging the ponds, then the swales to get the hang of the machine, then dig up against the basement wall when you feel confident that you aren't going to destroy the basement wall/foundation.
My maintenance manual for my 941b called for 30 wt oil in the engine and all gearboxes. There are filters on the transmission and steering clutches if you have power shift and pedal steer. I changed over the transmission oil and steering clutches to the much improved TO4 oil.
I also had to change out a number of pins and bushings on the bucket/lift assembly!
I would start at the bottom finish grade and work into the hill.
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Fri, Sep 14, 2012 1:54 AM
drujinin
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Reply to dpendzic:
My maintenance manual for my 941b called for 30 wt oil in the engine and all gearboxes. There are filters on the transmission and steering clutches if you have power shift and pedal steer. I changed over the transmission oil and steering clutches to the much improved TO4 oil.
I also had to change out a number of pins and bushings on the bucket/lift assembly!
I would start at the bottom finish grade and work into the hill.
I agree with dpendzic in the case of new construction.
Based on your description I assumed there was a wall there.
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Fri, Sep 14, 2012 7:21 AM
B4D2
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Reply to drujinin:
I agree with dpendzic in the case of new construction.
Based on your description I assumed there was a wall there.
Soil type, where the spoil pile will be placed and your expectations of "finish grade" will all combine to determine your plan of attack. If the digging is easy and the walkout is relatively large and the spoil pile is going to be "downhill," I'd start on top and push a lot of the fill out of the hole. Once I was below grade, then I'd trim up the sides. I have a 933 and any kind of a turn within a confined space will leave a less-then-desirable finish grade. Be aware that once you get close to the bottom, you will need to be a bit more precise with your maneuvers to avoid hogging out more depth than your finish grade calls for.
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Fri, Sep 14, 2012 8:18 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to B4D2:
Soil type, where the spoil pile will be placed and your expectations of "finish grade" will all combine to determine your plan of attack. If the digging is easy and the walkout is relatively large and the spoil pile is going to be "downhill," I'd start on top and push a lot of the fill out of the hole. Once I was below grade, then I'd trim up the sides. I have a 933 and any kind of a turn within a confined space will leave a less-then-desirable finish grade. Be aware that once you get close to the bottom, you will need to be a bit more precise with your maneuvers to avoid hogging out more depth than your finish grade calls for.
Hi, Onesojourner.
What you have there is one of the most reliable little track loaders ever built. Treat it right and will give you a LOT of service and - who knows - maybe even a LOT of fun operating it.

As mentioned above, there are filters for the trans and steering systems and there is a magnetic screen for the trans. Filter and screen for the trans are under the seat. The magnetic screen is washable - a spray paint gun filled with diesel seems to do a pretty fair job of getting all those little iron filings off.

The steering system filter is on the right side behind the engine, about under the firewall. If you just give a brief look for it, you may well miss it. It's a bit of mongrel to get at but it should be done as required by the manual - about every 500 hours, I think.

The steering pedal adjustment is first three inches of travel releases the clutch, the rest is for the brake.

The hydraulic filter is in the top of the hyd. tank.

I would be starting from basement floor level unless, as B4D2 suggested, the ground lends itself to pushing down from the top to get rid of as much material as possible as quickly as possible. If you can do this, it will help when you do come to start digging in from the walk-in opening if you build yourself a level platform at grade to use as a starting area for the final dig-out and as a turning area outside the actual excavation. If desired, you can clear this away later.

Just be a little cautious. The front-engined 941's don't back out of steep slopes or mud/soft ground like their later rear-engined brothers.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Fri, Sep 14, 2012 8:16 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Onesojourner.
What you have there is one of the most reliable little track loaders ever built. Treat it right and will give you a LOT of service and - who knows - maybe even a LOT of fun operating it.

As mentioned above, there are filters for the trans and steering systems and there is a magnetic screen for the trans. Filter and screen for the trans are under the seat. The magnetic screen is washable - a spray paint gun filled with diesel seems to do a pretty fair job of getting all those little iron filings off.

The steering system filter is on the right side behind the engine, about under the firewall. If you just give a brief look for it, you may well miss it. It's a bit of mongrel to get at but it should be done as required by the manual - about every 500 hours, I think.

The steering pedal adjustment is first three inches of travel releases the clutch, the rest is for the brake.

The hydraulic filter is in the top of the hyd. tank.

I would be starting from basement floor level unless, as B4D2 suggested, the ground lends itself to pushing down from the top to get rid of as much material as possible as quickly as possible. If you can do this, it will help when you do come to start digging in from the walk-in opening if you build yourself a level platform at grade to use as a starting area for the final dig-out and as a turning area outside the actual excavation. If desired, you can clear this away later.

Just be a little cautious. The front-engined 941's don't back out of steep slopes or mud/soft ground like their later rear-engined brothers.

Just my 0.02.
Deas--on my 941b the transmission filter is on the front of the transmission,recessed horizontal and facing the engine
the steering clutch filters are right under the operators seat and are vertical.
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Fri, Sep 14, 2012 9:07 PM
onesojourner
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Reply to dpendzic:
Deas--on my 941b the transmission filter is on the front of the transmission,recessed horizontal and facing the engine
the steering clutch filters are right under the operators seat and are vertical.
I found the filters under the seat, I haven't set about changing them yet though, and those are steering clutch filters?

We got the oil changed and the oil filter changed last night. We found 7 gallons of oil in it... I refilled it with 5 gallons.

Do you guys have any tips for changing the fuel filter? Am I going to find it hard to start after the change?



Here is a picture of the land:
[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OcTIPSygLnM/T99YgH0REPI/AAAAAAAAFPc/Yvn7GY7LdDA/s800/IMG_0093.JPG[/img]

The house is going to set right where it starts dropping off quick.

The soil is normal MO soil. rock and clay.
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Fri, Sep 14, 2012 11:46 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to onesojourner:
I found the filters under the seat, I haven't set about changing them yet though, and those are steering clutch filters?

We got the oil changed and the oil filter changed last night. We found 7 gallons of oil in it... I refilled it with 5 gallons.

Do you guys have any tips for changing the fuel filter? Am I going to find it hard to start after the change?



Here is a picture of the land:
[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OcTIPSygLnM/T99YgH0REPI/AAAAAAAAFPc/Yvn7GY7LdDA/s800/IMG_0093.JPG[/img]

The house is going to set right where it starts dropping off quick.

The soil is normal MO soil. rock and clay.
yes--steering clutch filter under the seat. Mine is 1R-0659 and the seal is 5f-3144. this is for serial# 80H 5029. There is a hand operated priming pump(plunger)that will get the air out of the new fuel filter.
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Sat, Sep 15, 2012 1:17 AM
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